V8 benzine in series 3 88 inch
V8 benzine in series 3 88 inch
Ik wil meer power in mijn series 3 uit 78. Welke v8 kan ik hierin bouwen? Als je toch wegenbelasting moet betalen wil ik wel lekker kunnen roffelen 
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Roger B.
- Berichten: 10154
- Lid geworden op: 03 Aug 2010, 06:56
- Locatie: Hinterecke (achterhoek over de grens)
Re: V8 benzine in series 3 88 inch
3,5 carb versie zal minste verbouwingen vragen.... efi vergt wat meer aanpassingen en op gegeven moment ga je wel erg veel meer power in het dingetje leggen....
gone
- Nicogroennl
- Berichten: 96
- Lid geworden op: 12 Okt 2013, 00:06
- Locatie: Munnekeburen
Re: V8 benzine in series 3 88 inch
Laatst een paar YouTube filmpjes gezien van een Amerikaanse series 3 met een V8. Erg leuk!
Series III 88" 1971 2,25 benzine 4 x 2
1*
1*
Re: V8 benzine in series 3 88 inch
Het vergt wat aanpassingen aan de bulkhead, tunnel en een andere versnellingsbak, maar verder is het niet moeilijk.
Ik zou de 6 pakken da's wat makkelijker.
Ik zou de 6 pakken da's wat makkelijker.
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Landmarcs
- Berichten: 9292
- Lid geworden op: 09 Okt 2007, 20:59
- Locatie: Als het zo doorgaat, tzt aan zee
Re: V8 benzine in series 3 88 inch
Dag Jweeda,
Ik meen me te herinneren dat Rob Stewart al weer geruime tijd terug op een gelijksoortige vraag antwoordde dat niets onmogelijk was bij LandRovers maar dat een V8 in een 88 erg dichtbij het onmogelijke kwam. Misschien kan je met wat zoekwerk de oude vraag+antwoord terugvinden.
Groeten MarcS
Ik meen me te herinneren dat Rob Stewart al weer geruime tijd terug op een gelijksoortige vraag antwoordde dat niets onmogelijk was bij LandRovers maar dat een V8 in een 88 erg dichtbij het onmogelijke kwam. Misschien kan je met wat zoekwerk de oude vraag+antwoord terugvinden.
Groeten MarcS
- RobStewart
- Berichten: 2280
- Lid geworden op: 15 Mei 2011, 12:04
- Locatie: Roger Young Land Rover, Cornwall
- Contact:
Re: V8 benzine in series 3 88 inch
Ah the V8 88" conversion ... it's a fantastic drive if it's done properly and it's terrible if it's done badly. Yes I did a write up a while ago but it was related to a 110 which is totally different.
So this is the "How To" (short version)
3.5 V8 Carb is the easiest but try and keep it to a Land Rover unit, if you get one of the P5B, P6 or SD1 units then you'll have lots of fun later in the story. You can go Efi if you are a true masochist.
Now where exactly are you going to put the engine and which gearbox are you going to use?
If you keep the Series LT76 then you will need an adaptor plate to match the flywheel housing of the V8 to the bellhousing of the LT76, you will also find that the engine mountings will not line up and that the down pipes of the exhaust will foul the bulkhead, the foot wells and the gearbox cross member. The Oil Filter will line up perfectly with the right hand side of the diff and axle casing and will be removed the first time you go over a dremple let alone what will happen when you go off road. Your gearing will be interesting and whilst you will have lots of torque at the bottom end you will run out of revs by the time you hit 100kph and will probably be deaf too.
You can use the bulkhead from the 2.6 6 cylinder Series, as the engine is 152,4mm longer than the 4 cylinder unit, to accommodate this they cut back the footwells, made the transmission tunnel larger and the floor plates smaller. But now you have to replace the floor section and bulkhead, move the gearbox further back, replace the gearbox cross member, shorten the rear propshaft and use the 6 cylinder front propshaft. At least you have solved the problem of the Oil Filter
Now if you want to go for a different gearbox then you can use either the LT77 or R380 with the LT230 transfer box.
As this is the short version we'll keep it simple and only concentrate on the LT77, so which V8 bellhousing are you going to use ? You have a choice of several and all of them will put the gearbox and engine in a slightly different place, now if it were me I would be using the short belhousing from the Rover SD1 manual. However you now have a gearbox and transfer box which is considerably longer and wider than the LT76. You will now have to fabricate your own floor, gearbox cross member, mountings, handbrake linkage and front and rear propshafts. The up side is that you now have 5 gears (you did chose the correct LT77 gearbox ?)
So let's assume you have the gearbox and engine in, the downpipes, flywheel housing etc do not foul the bulkhead and it looks very pretty.
What exhaust system are you going to use? What do you mean a 90 V8 one doesn't fit, how hard can it be ? Who put the chassis rails that close together and why is the rear axle in a stupid place with those leafy things holding them to the chassis. No-one explained that to me ... bugger.
Cooling might be an idea? Can I use the existing radiator, why not it fits the front grill but won't cope with the additional heat output of the V8 so it might be worth considering uprating it to the 4 row heavy duty aftermarket item. Hiring a plumber might also be worth considering because the top and bottom hoses will not line up and the bleed hose is on the wrong side. I wouldn't bother connecting the old Series heater there will be enough heat coming through the footwells to mean you will have the windows open all year round.
So we have a shiny custom made Stainless Steel Exhaust system, a really cool Cooling system and a free heating system, you turn the key and nothing happens ... Oh yes we need to get fuel down there, silly me. Well the easiest route to go is the Facet electric unit fitted to the Series 2.6 6cylinder, Range Rover and V8 defender but you will need to make your own wiring and pipe work.
So it starts, runs and you blast out of the workshop like a "Bat out of Hell" ... did I mention that the middle pedal doesn't work the way it used to ? ... sorry totally slipped my mind. Those 10 inch drum brakes are not really designed to stop that amount of power. OK, so while you get the lump hammer and try and straighten the front bodywork, I'll try and fit something that might at least look like it's trying to stop you. The simplest way is to use the complete braking system from the Series 2.6, that's the master cylinder, servo, backing plates, wheel cylinders, brake shoes etc. The shoes are wider than the normal series and are 11 inch in diameter.
OK we're off and we did tap the brakes as we left the workshop and it did actually attempt to stop ... lets go for a drive round the block. The steering has gone heavy ? Did you use the LT77 and LT230 ... oh bugger that's permanent 4 wheel drive isn't it, your front axle was never designed for that, my humble apologies I should have said earlier. Well it's not a problem we can either put 90 axles front and rear, might require a bit of electric glue here and there but it's not that difficult and we do get disc brakes on the front so that's a bonus or we can try and find a very early LT230R Santana transfer box which has selectable 2WD/4WD option and you can keep the series Axles.
So finally we have working vehicle, It has a Rover V8, LT77, LT230, Disc brakes etc etc ... but look I see it has a funny badge on it ... Oh I see it was easier to go out and buy a Defender, wise move.
Rob
So this is the "How To" (short version)
3.5 V8 Carb is the easiest but try and keep it to a Land Rover unit, if you get one of the P5B, P6 or SD1 units then you'll have lots of fun later in the story. You can go Efi if you are a true masochist.
Now where exactly are you going to put the engine and which gearbox are you going to use?
If you keep the Series LT76 then you will need an adaptor plate to match the flywheel housing of the V8 to the bellhousing of the LT76, you will also find that the engine mountings will not line up and that the down pipes of the exhaust will foul the bulkhead, the foot wells and the gearbox cross member. The Oil Filter will line up perfectly with the right hand side of the diff and axle casing and will be removed the first time you go over a dremple let alone what will happen when you go off road. Your gearing will be interesting and whilst you will have lots of torque at the bottom end you will run out of revs by the time you hit 100kph and will probably be deaf too.
You can use the bulkhead from the 2.6 6 cylinder Series, as the engine is 152,4mm longer than the 4 cylinder unit, to accommodate this they cut back the footwells, made the transmission tunnel larger and the floor plates smaller. But now you have to replace the floor section and bulkhead, move the gearbox further back, replace the gearbox cross member, shorten the rear propshaft and use the 6 cylinder front propshaft. At least you have solved the problem of the Oil Filter
Now if you want to go for a different gearbox then you can use either the LT77 or R380 with the LT230 transfer box.
As this is the short version we'll keep it simple and only concentrate on the LT77, so which V8 bellhousing are you going to use ? You have a choice of several and all of them will put the gearbox and engine in a slightly different place, now if it were me I would be using the short belhousing from the Rover SD1 manual. However you now have a gearbox and transfer box which is considerably longer and wider than the LT76. You will now have to fabricate your own floor, gearbox cross member, mountings, handbrake linkage and front and rear propshafts. The up side is that you now have 5 gears (you did chose the correct LT77 gearbox ?)
So let's assume you have the gearbox and engine in, the downpipes, flywheel housing etc do not foul the bulkhead and it looks very pretty.
What exhaust system are you going to use? What do you mean a 90 V8 one doesn't fit, how hard can it be ? Who put the chassis rails that close together and why is the rear axle in a stupid place with those leafy things holding them to the chassis. No-one explained that to me ... bugger.
Cooling might be an idea? Can I use the existing radiator, why not it fits the front grill but won't cope with the additional heat output of the V8 so it might be worth considering uprating it to the 4 row heavy duty aftermarket item. Hiring a plumber might also be worth considering because the top and bottom hoses will not line up and the bleed hose is on the wrong side. I wouldn't bother connecting the old Series heater there will be enough heat coming through the footwells to mean you will have the windows open all year round.
So we have a shiny custom made Stainless Steel Exhaust system, a really cool Cooling system and a free heating system, you turn the key and nothing happens ... Oh yes we need to get fuel down there, silly me. Well the easiest route to go is the Facet electric unit fitted to the Series 2.6 6cylinder, Range Rover and V8 defender but you will need to make your own wiring and pipe work.
So it starts, runs and you blast out of the workshop like a "Bat out of Hell" ... did I mention that the middle pedal doesn't work the way it used to ? ... sorry totally slipped my mind. Those 10 inch drum brakes are not really designed to stop that amount of power. OK, so while you get the lump hammer and try and straighten the front bodywork, I'll try and fit something that might at least look like it's trying to stop you. The simplest way is to use the complete braking system from the Series 2.6, that's the master cylinder, servo, backing plates, wheel cylinders, brake shoes etc. The shoes are wider than the normal series and are 11 inch in diameter.
OK we're off and we did tap the brakes as we left the workshop and it did actually attempt to stop ... lets go for a drive round the block. The steering has gone heavy ? Did you use the LT77 and LT230 ... oh bugger that's permanent 4 wheel drive isn't it, your front axle was never designed for that, my humble apologies I should have said earlier. Well it's not a problem we can either put 90 axles front and rear, might require a bit of electric glue here and there but it's not that difficult and we do get disc brakes on the front so that's a bonus or we can try and find a very early LT230R Santana transfer box which has selectable 2WD/4WD option and you can keep the series Axles.
So finally we have working vehicle, It has a Rover V8, LT77, LT230, Disc brakes etc etc ... but look I see it has a funny badge on it ... Oh I see it was easier to go out and buy a Defender, wise move.
Rob
Aub alleen te reageren in het Nederlands
1949 1,6 Series I
1975 3,5 V8 Range Rover
1989 3,5 V8 Discovery
2010 Td4e GS Freelander 2
2008 Td4 GS Freelander 2 ... yes we now have two

1949 1,6 Series I
1975 3,5 V8 Range Rover
1989 3,5 V8 Discovery
2010 Td4e GS Freelander 2
2008 Td4 GS Freelander 2 ... yes we now have two
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Landmarcs
- Berichten: 9292
- Lid geworden op: 09 Okt 2007, 20:59
- Locatie: Als het zo doorgaat, tzt aan zee
Re: V8 benzine in series 3 88 inch
RobStewart schreef:Ah the V8 88" conversion ... it's a fantastic drive if it's done properly and it's terrible if it's done badly. Yes I did a write up a while ago but it was related to a 110 which is totally different.
So this is the "How To" (short version)
......
......
So finally we have working vehicle, It has a Rover V8, LT77, LT230, Disc brakes etc etc ... but look I see it has a funny badge on it ... Oh I see it was easier to go out and buy a Defender, wise move.
Tja, op de een of andere manier herinner ik met iets gelijkluidends, dus hetzij Rob is consistent in zijn meningen danwel is het een meervoudig gedeeld inzicht.
Anyway, je zou het dus n andere woorden kunnen samenvatten, in de geest van:
"Die lieden in Solihull zijn zo gek nog niet: Eerst de 90 ontwikkelen en daarna pas hebben ze de V8 erin gedropt."
Groeten MarcS
- RobStewart
- Berichten: 2280
- Lid geworden op: 15 Mei 2011, 12:04
- Locatie: Roger Young Land Rover, Cornwall
- Contact:
Re: V8 benzine in series 3 88 inch
Landmarcs schreef:"Die lieden in Solihull zijn zo gek nog niet: Eerst de 90 ontwikkelen en daarna pas hebben ze de V8 erin gedropt."
Well sort of ... we did develop 29 88" Stage Ones but it did prove to be realistically unworkable, with 24 of them ending up in Trinidad
Rob
Aub alleen te reageren in het Nederlands
1949 1,6 Series I
1975 3,5 V8 Range Rover
1989 3,5 V8 Discovery
2010 Td4e GS Freelander 2
2008 Td4 GS Freelander 2 ... yes we now have two

1949 1,6 Series I
1975 3,5 V8 Range Rover
1989 3,5 V8 Discovery
2010 Td4e GS Freelander 2
2008 Td4 GS Freelander 2 ... yes we now have two
Re: V8 benzine in series 3 88 inch
ja maar bij de stage1 was er al meer ruimte onder de motorkap gecreeerd door de teruggevallen neus op te offeren (wat dus in de richting komt van de huidige defender)
ik weet niet hoe dit met het chassis zit, of dat men dan ook de voorste crossmember verder naar voren gezet hebben, want met een series chassis kun je met de motor niet verder naar voren omdat je dan met je Vsnaar tegen je crossmember zit.. (en in de neus zit nog ruimte als je besluit om die platen er uit te slijpen die nu gebruikt zijn om lucht in je radiator te duwen net als een trechter).
ik weet niet hoe dit met het chassis zit, of dat men dan ook de voorste crossmember verder naar voren gezet hebben, want met een series chassis kun je met de motor niet verder naar voren omdat je dan met je Vsnaar tegen je crossmember zit.. (en in de neus zit nog ruimte als je besluit om die platen er uit te slijpen die nu gebruikt zijn om lucht in je radiator te duwen net als een trechter).
------
Series 3 109 Ex defensie. 2.5NA 24V (Auto voltage) en 12V (extra voltage via aparte dynamo voor aanhangers enzo)
Onze laro houd gewoon van de natuur.. moet je na zo'n offroad dag eens kijken wat hij er allemaal van mee naar huis wil nemen
Series 3 109 Ex defensie. 2.5NA 24V (Auto voltage) en 12V (extra voltage via aparte dynamo voor aanhangers enzo)
Onze laro houd gewoon van de natuur.. moet je na zo'n offroad dag eens kijken wat hij er allemaal van mee naar huis wil nemen
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Roger B.
- Berichten: 10154
- Lid geworden op: 03 Aug 2010, 06:56
- Locatie: Hinterecke (achterhoek over de grens)
Re: V8 benzine in series 3 88 inch
afgezien van verschillen tussen series en 90/110/stageone... waarom zou het in een 90/88 anders gaan dan in een 110/109? de voorste helft is bij de korte versie toch niet anders dan bij de lange??
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